Hello friends (and curious strangers),

Not long after we moved here, we decided to try one of the many hiking trails that wind through the mountains surrounding our village.

We live inside the Majella National Park, a UNESCO Global Geopark with hundreds of hiking trails stretching through forests, valleys, rivers, and deep mountain gorges.

One of the places we had heard about again and again was the spectacular Valle dell'Orfento, a deep gorge carved by the crystal-clear waters of the Orfento River.

Before setting out that morning, we stopped at our local market where they make delicious sandwiches for hikers heading into the park. Thin slices of prosciutto and thick mozzarella piled onto freshly baked bread and drizzled with olive oil—simple and perfect. Thinking a picnic beside the river sounded like a good idea, we tucked them into our backpacks.

The park headquarters and visitor center are just a short walk from our house, where the trail begins. First, we had to stop and register our hike…for safety reasons, they like to know who is hiking in the park.

At the entrance to the trail, there is a wildlife rehabilitation center, and if you’re lucky you might spot wild animals waiting to be released back into the park. On this first visit, we saw roe deer, a majestic hawk, and even an otter.

We walked past a domed stone hut once used by shepherds as temporary shelter in the mountains. We’ve come across many of these traditional structures during our hikes throughout the park…just another piece of the story of the people who once lived and worked in these mountains.

As we made our way along the trail, we encountered large rock overhangs that create natural, cave-like spaces—just deep enough to offer shelter if needed.

Next to them, a historical marker tells the story of the Freedom Trail, used during World War II by escaped Allied prisoners hiding from German forces. Cold, wet, and hungry, they survived in these mountains with help from local villagers who secretly brought them bread, food, and clothing.

Standing there, it was hard not to imagine what those nights in the mountains must have been like for those soldiers.

As we approached the edge of the gorge, the rocky, almost desert-like terrain opened up into wide views across distant mountains and ridgelines.

And then, the trail turned—and we began our descent into the gorge…

Thankfully I had brought my trusty walking sticks with me. Turning an ankle inside the gorge would not be ideal…unless you enjoy the idea of being carried or airlifted out by a mountain rescue team.

The path was narrow and steep, with a sharp drop on one side. Tree roots crossed the trail in places, and you had to be careful not to stumble. The rocks were uneven and sometimes slippery, and it was difficult to keep my eyes on the trail when instead I wanted to take in all the scenery.

As we made our way down, we could hear the sound of the Orfento River rushing below.

The closer we got, the louder it became.

When we finally reached the bottom, the trail leveled out and the scenery changed completely.

The river rushed through the gorge, tumbling over mossy boulders and fallen branches, the sound echoing off the stone walls around us. Ferns, lush vegetation, and wildflowers grew along the banks.

Towering canyon walls rose high above us, draped with long tendrils of ivy and greenery. Rustic wooden bridges carried the trail back and forth across the river, and I found myself stopping every few steps to take another photograph.

The whole place felt so magical that I half expected to see fairies or gnomes hiding among the mossy rocks.

The water was cold and unbelievably clear, glowing with beautiful shades of blue where the sunlight peeked through the trees. In the quieter pools between the rushing sections you could see straight to the bottom and sometimes fish darting for cover.

Something interesting I learned is that a bird called the White-throated Dipper lives in this area and will only survive where the water is clean and uncontaminated…another hint of how pristine this place really is.

At one point we came across a waterfall gently cascading down from high above the gorge.

After walking along the river for a while, we found a flat rock near the water’s edge and decided it was the perfect place to stop for lunch. We pulled the sandwiches from our backpacks, taking in the beauty around us as we ate.

After a hike like that, it may have been the best sandwich I’d ever tasted.

Eventually the trail reached its end, which meant only one thing—it was time to climb back out.

The ascent was steep, but this section of trail had been reinforced with a long staircase of steps. I believe I counted a couple hundred of them…though I may have lost count once or twice while stopping to catch my breath.

When we finally reached the top, just beyond the trail exit, an elderly Italian man had parked his small vehicle and was selling fresh fruit from the back. We bought a few peaches and enjoyed them on the short walk back to our house.

Since that day, we’ve hiked many trails throughout the park, and each one still manages to amaze me. There’s something humbling about living in a place like this, with so much right outside our door.

It’s not something I take for granted…and the memories we’re making here are ones I won’t forget.

Until next time —

With love from Italy,

Jamie

I usually write every other week — and sometimes more when there’s a good story to tell.